Lamp does not shine
Fault reason: There may be a faulty circuit breaker, poor contact between the lamp holder and the lamp post, a broken lamp, or a disconnected lamp pin from the filament. The starter might not be properly inserted into the socket or could have its own quality issues. Additionally, an open ballast coil can also cause this problem.
Remedy: Start by checking if there is power in the circuit using a test lamp. If it's normal, check the voltage on the starter socket. To do this, remove the starter first and then connect the test lamp to the socket. When powered on, if the test lamp glows dimly red, it means the circuit is intact, and you just need to replace the starter with a new one. However, if the test lamp doesn't light up, the issue may be due to poor contact between the lamp and the holder. Try rotating the lamp slightly to improve contact. If that doesn’t work, remove the lamp and use a multimeter to check the continuity of the filament at both ends and the ballast’s resistance. This will help determine if they are functioning correctly.
The filament burns out immediately
Cause of the fault: Incorrect wiring, a shorted roller, or a defective lamp.
Remedy: Check the wiring to ensure the ballast is in series with the lamp filament. If not, excessive current can burn out the filament. If the wiring is correct, use a multimeter to check for a shorted ballast. A shorted ballast won’t limit current properly, leading to immediate filament failure. In such cases, the ballast should be replaced. If the lamp emits white smoke after being turned on, it likely has a serious internal leak, and a new lamp should be installed.
Both ends of the lamp are bright, but the middle is not
Fault cause: Chronic gas leakage in the lamp or poor contact between the starter and the socket.
Remedy: If the lamp lights up with red glow at both ends and the middle remains dark, it indicates chronic gas leakage. In this case, the lamp should be replaced. If removing the starter allows the lamp to light normally, the problem lies with the starter itself. Open the starter housing and measure the capacitor using a multimeter. If the capacitor is shorted, replace it with a new one. If no replacement is available, cut off the damaged part, but note that this may interfere with nearby radios. Also, check if the bimetallic strip inside the starter is touching the static contact, which would require replacing the starter.
Spiral light band appears inside the tube (commonly known as "rolling")
Fault cause: Poor lamp quality or excessive current from the ballast.
Remedy: If a new lamp shows rolling right after being turned on, it may be due to impure gas or under-aging. Repeatedly turning it on can often resolve the issue. If the problem persists, the lamp is likely defective and needs to be replaced. If the same issue occurs with a new lamp, check the ballast current with an AC ammeter. If the current is too high, the ballast must be replaced or repaired.
Flickering or shimmering at the tube end
Fault cause: Incorrect wiring, switch leakage, or afterglow from a new lamp.
Remedy: First, check if the switch is connected to the neutral line. If so, a small glow may remain due to the presence of a capacitor in the tube. Simply switching the switch to the live wire can eliminate the glow. If the glow still exists, check the switch for leaks. A leaking switch should be repaired or replaced to avoid damaging the lamp. In some cases, even with correct wiring, a new lamp may show slight afterglow, which is normal and does not affect the lamp’s lifespan.
Blackened ends of the tube
Fault cause: Aging lamp, mismatched accessories, or frequent switching.
Remedy: If the lamp has reached or exceeded its expected lifespan, blackening at the ends is normal. Replace the lamp when the luminous output drops significantly. If a new lamp shows severe blackening, it may be due to rapid emission of electron material from the filament, which can damage the tube walls. Also, frequent switching increases the starting current, accelerating lamp aging.
Ballast produces buzzing sound
Fault cause: Low-quality ballast or resonance caused by improper installation.
Remedy: It is normal for a ballast to produce a low-level hum due to electromagnetic vibration. However, if the noise is excessive, the ballast should be replaced. Improper installation or looseness can cause resonance with nearby objects. Tightening the ballast or placing it on a rubber pad can reduce the noise.
Ballast overheats and insulation melts
Fault cause: Poor ballast quality, high supply voltage, or faulty starter.
Remedy: First, check the ballast’s working current using an AC ammeter. If the current is too high due to a shorted ballast, replace it. If the current is within the acceptable range, check the starter’s capacitor for breakdown and the internal contacts of the bubble. Ensure all components are in good condition to prevent overheating and potential damage.
Additional notes: Proper installation, regular maintenance, and using quality components are essential for the long-term performance of fluorescent lighting systems. Always follow safety guidelines when handling electrical equipment.
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